Music, memory, wine and waiting.

I got thinking this morning as I was in the car, listening to the radio, about music. More specifically, how some songs have the unique ability to transport you back to a particular moment in time. Whether anguish or excitement, some songs encapsulate and even accentuate the emotion and when, maybe years later, you hear the opening chords, all the feelings you had during that particular break-up or road-trip come flashing back. 

Books are different because, while they can trigger similar emotive reactions, they are a distraction from your current situation and they transport you to a new place, away from any grief or hardship. Unlike music, if you were to re-read a favourite book years later, you may enjoy it just as much, but you will most likely interpret it from a new perspective.

The impact of a good wine lies somewhere in between. To the question “what’s the best wine you’ve ever drunk?” we have all heard the response: “it was the bottle we had on the first date with my future spouse.” Like when you browse through Spotify, when you choose a wine, you are deciding what kind of ambiance you want to set. Whilst there’s a sea of mundanity to wade through – in music too – when you take the first sip of a really good wine, it provokes an instant “wow” which elevates the moment and imprints itself in your memory.

It’s easy for wines and wineries to retain that special place once the sentimental connection has been created. A quick photo of the label and the memory has been immortalised.

There is a wine – “Tout Naturellement” from Florian and Mathilde Beck Hartweg – which I choose when I’m stressed or upset because the initial sniff can alleviate that tension simply through its familiarity. Most of the time, however, while I might be able to remember my tasting notes of a given wine, I can’t remember the exact taste of the wine on my tongue in the way that I can recall song lyrics, hum the melody and relive the feelings.

That is probably because, when you return to a wine which once had forged an emotional association, you look at it through a different lens. Maybe the expectations are higher, maybe your taste has changed, maybe the wine has changed. While it may prompt you to remember the first time you tried it, the memories don’t come flooding back as they would with a song on the radio. It’s more like a book. Your perspective is everything.

In The Vineyards With: Melanie Tarlant (Champagne)

Tarlant is the Champagne house which has accompanied most of our special occasions. It is a winery Alessandro knew because they are longtime members of the VinNatur Association and which I knew because I count Melanie (and now Daniel) as friends. When I moved in with Alessandro, we popped a bottle of their Brut Nature “Zéro.” We drank Cuvée Louis to celebrate the birth of our first born (a gift from Micheline months earlier, when I told her I was pregnant.)

It was our wedding anniversary recently, and of course, I reached again for a bottle of Tarlant. This time it was a bottle of “Zéro” that I bought during a visit to the winery in the spring of 2016.

Alessandro wasn’t feeling too well so we only drank half a bottle and, as we often do, saved the rest for the next day. The thing is, the next day the baby got sick and he’s been in hospital for three days now so Ale and I have been passing like ships in the night, alternating shifts at his bedside, juggling work and our daughter. As I was rummaging in the fridge this morning for something to take for lunch in the hospital, I spotted that bottle of Tarlant in the door of the fridge, still half-finished.

“Champagne naturel, ouvert et sentimental.” Sounds quite appropriate.

Let’s hope the baby gets discharged from the hospital tomorrow (keep your fingers crossed!) and we can sit down at home all together and enjoy the rest of the bottle. The bubbles may have lost their effervescence, and we too will be more exhausted than usual, but I’m sure the taste of the wine will be even sweeter because of the wait. It will then, of course, become another memory engraved on my heart.

Backstage at the Soavino Wine Tasting

Earlier this week, Soavino held their annual tasting at the Villa Gritti, near Soave. Not having a restaurant, wine bar or off-licence, I shouldn’t really have been allowed in but I am a regular client of their enoteca (also near Soave) and I also happen to be friends with several of the exhibiting winemakers who put me on the guest list.

In the wine world, we sometimes get so caught up in tasting notes and comparing vintages that we forget about what is happening backstage, on a human level….

mel_danielaChampagne’s most recent power couple!

You may remember that I spent the afternoon with Melanie Tarlant at their winery near Épernay last year. Well, there’s news, hot off the press:

She met Daniel Romano quite by chance, while she was presenting her family’s Champagnes at the Villa Favorita tasting in Italy in April 2016. Daniel, an accomplished sommelier specialised in natural wines, stopped by the stand to taste… and Cupid shot them both with his arrow! Daniel moved to France at the end of 2016 in order to be closer to Melanie. Best of luck to both of them!


Going back to basics with Olivier Varichon

olivier_varichona

The quality of the cork closure is fundamentally important for a winemaker. A bad cork can ruin a year’s worth of work in an instant.

We commonly talk about TCA (cork taint) affecting a wine, by making it “corked”, but a bad cork can actually spoil a wine in other ways… turning it bitter, flat or dusty.

When winemakers get together, one of the questions that I hear the most is: where do you get your corks? Amongst old world winemakers, the most highly respected regions are Portugual and Sardinia.

At the Soavino tasting, I got chatting to Olivier from Domaine Vinci, in the Roussillon (south-west France.) He explains that his corks are from the French part of the Basque country and are completely untreated. A cork manufacturer may add wax to fill in the holes and give a more appetising tan colour to the final product. Olivier’s, on the other hand, are distinctly knobbly and have a bleached white colour.


axellea

The talented Axelle Machard de Gramont whose 2014 Nuits-Saint-Georges are showing beautifully.


In case you were wondering what the featured photo was in the header of this blog post…. it was taken during a brief pause on the André Beaufort stand. The Italians love Champagne and André Beaufort’s are one of the biggest sellers at the Soavino shop. Unsurprisingly, they got through a ton of bottles at this tasting.

Many of the Beaufort Brut Champagnes have a fairly high level of added sugar (dosage, in French.) The exact level ranges between 5 and 10 grams/litre.

Having a little extra sugar helps in markets like the USA, Canada and other “newbie” consumers for whom completely bone-dry Champagnes tend to be too sharp.

Réol (pictured below) is the 6th of the eight Beaufort children. He explains that this style of Champagne is very much to his father’s liking, especially because he has found that dosage helps with the ageing process of the wines.

He comes over to talk with us later and reveals that his personal style is rather more towards having a lower dosage, maybe around 2g/l. Obviously, having such a large family – most of whom are in some way involved in the family business – you can’t always get what you want… but, once again, the passing from one generation to the next is not easy.

Réol Beaufort

In The Vineyards With: Melanie Tarlant (Champagne)

It’s been a nervous month for winemakers across France. The most notable casualties have been Burgundy, Loire and Beaujolais, but the Champenois are also holding their breath anxiously.

With these sudden high temperatures (24-25ºC) come violent thunderstorms. (Yeah, the weather has gone straight from torrential rain (you can’t have missed the media coverage of all the flooding in France and of the high river level in Paris recently.)

Photo Vineyard Vallée de la Marne (c) Emma Bentley

Even as Mel and I were walking through the ungrafted Chardonnay vines (one of the only ungrafted vineyards in the whole Champagne region!) we saw lightning strike the opposite side of the valley. Micheline, Mel’s mother, had told us not to take too long. Fortunately, she needn’t have worried – for the first time in history, an English girl brought the sunshine with her!

Continue reading “In The Vineyards With: Melanie Tarlant (Champagne)”

Exclusive Vintage 2004

We all agree that wine-tasting is highly subjective. That one’s state of mind, the company one is with, the time of day, what has been drunk before… and after, for that matter. The chances that all these variables can be 100% replicated is nigh on impossible. Why, in that case, do we persist in reading other people’s tasting notes?

In this particular case, the circumstances around the bottle of wine in question were pretty darn exceptional. Before I start with the tasting note, let me set the scene :

New Year’s Eve 2013. I was invited to spend a few days with a friend and her family on the Loire-Atlantic coast. One of the advantages of having a beautiful château as your country house is that it’s easy to host a dozen family members and friends during the festivities. I had been before, exactly ten years ago to the day. It is rather strange staying with someone else’s family, getting to know all the nuances of who’s who. If you’ve ever seen François Ozon’s film “Huit Femmes” you’ll know what I’m talking about. Just substitute the snow for torrential rain. 

However, because all the bedrooms in the main house were taken, I had drawn the short straw: I would be sleeping alone in the haunted “Duck House.” I was put in the top bedroom, in which there was a patio door, giving onto a rusty balcony and a large tree-branch which would sway in the wind and occasionnally bat against the window. The lights in the Duck House would flicker, the floorboards would creak, and somewhere, sometime door-hinges would squeak with a draught. During that first night, at 4.54am, I could swear I heard somebody walking up those stairs.

1388506881594 Fast forward to New Year’s Eve itself. We’d spent the past three days eating and drinking. In between the heavy rain, we would nip out to the surrounding forest and marshland to give the dogs some exercise and unwittingly stumble upon a wild boar or family of deer.

Inevitably, every mealtime the conversation at some point or another would turn to other people’s paranormal experiences of staying in the Duck House. I’m not easily spooked, but needless to say, with all this talk of rapists, ghosts and rattling chains, by the 31st, my nerves were pretty frayed.

“Exclusive Vintage” 2004 Grand Cru, Brut Zero, Blanc de Blancs. Unlike the big labels whose whopping marketing budgets mean for worldwide recognition but often a mediocre quality, Exclusive Vintage is a selection of great years from small anonymous growers based in Avize (Côte des Blancs). I’d brought this bottle as our aperitif before the big blow-out meal.

The bubbles are delicate. The limestone soil is instantly apparent. There’s plenty of reassuring fruit characters – of green and yellow stone and citrus fruit. There are sweet floral notes. A little honey. Honeysuckle, actually. The mouth carries through on all those initial promises, and also offers a sharp minerality and a certain amount of toasted-butter-brioche, but it’s not over done.

Overall it’s a fine drink, well-balanced and refreshing. Best of all though, it steeled my nerves for the rest of the stay and gave me the courage to go back to the ghost house for one more night. I would definitely recommend it, but I hereby challenge you to find a haunted château in which to drink it!

Price: €

Rating: ***